Flores

Flores is one of the big islands in the Lesser Sunda archipelago situated some 8 - 9° S and 120 – 123° E. The island was discovered by Portuguese explorers in the early 15th century, when they landed on a small peninsula in the east and called it “Coba da Flores” because of the incredible coral formations ringing the island. In the last few years, Flores has been swamped by ethnographers, paleontologists, and biologists after the discovery of three-foot tall Homo Erectus skeletons and miniaturized elephant fossils dating back about 15,000 years. The island is also home to gigantic rats and Komodo dragons, not to mention massive saltwater crocodiles.

Bajawa is both an ethnic group and a small town. The Bajawa ethnic group mainly inhabits the eastern part of the central highlands, in Ngada District, on the slopes of the Inerie volcano (2,245 m). The total population of this area is around 100,000 people, most of whom are Catholic due to Portuguese, and later Dutch, colonization. The total area under coffee cultivation in Ngada Distict is around 6000 hectares, of which 90% is Arabica. Arabica coffee is grown at altitudes ranging from 1,200 m to 1.600 m above sea level. Fertilizer inputs have almost never been applied by the farmers, other than organic manure and composting. The varietals grown on Flores are S 795 (dominant), Typica, Catimor, and some Timor Hybrids. S 795 is an Indian selection which was introduced to Java in the mid 1950’s.

Under normal climate conditions the coffee harvesting period begins in May or early June. Traditionally the farmers handpick only the mature (red) cherries. After picking the cherry is hand sorted to remove under-ripes. The harvesting period is usually wrapped up by September or early October.

The processing unit removes the outer skin of the red cherries by pulping machine in the afternoon on the day they are delivered. The pulped coffee, still covered in sticky mucilage, is then put into fermentation tanks for 36 hours. After washing, the clean parchment is fully sun-dried on raised tables down to 12 % moisture content. Final hand sorting is typically done by the exporter.

Until 2005, all the coffee in Flores was dry-processed, blended and sold to exporters as Flores DP (still readily available, still awful). In reality, the cherries were simply dried on the ground and the farmer would only receive 30 or 40 cents per pound for the stuff. Without any financial incentive, the quality of this coffee was extremely low. In 2005, however, with $40,000 from the ICCRI and spearheaded by a man named Sirup, two farmer groups (Fa Masa and Suka Maju) began processing the coffee using the fully-washed method described above. We cupped several samples of these first attempts and were cautiously optimistic. We bought one box that year, and were so impressed we doubled down in 2006, paying prices which amounted to a 140% increase in farmer revenue. This year, 5 more farmer groups (Ateriji, Papataki, Papawiu, Mezamogo, and Wongawali) have decided to undertake wet-processing and all seven groups are now certified organic through the Control Union Certification (USDA-NOP and EU2092/91).

If you are looking for quietly complex flavors from a coffee that is relatively little-known, Flores would suit you well. This light bodied coffee boasts the fruity delicacies of its Indonesian counter parts but it also stands on its own by offering sweet nuances of nut, earthy flowers, and cacao. Our light roast brings out the sweet undertones that make it a delectable drink to the last drop.

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